Brake pads and shoes
Front and rear pads, rear shoes on drum-brake vehicles, and the clips, shims, and springs that go with them.
Mechanical repair
Brakes almost always warn you before they quit: a squeal at low speed, a shudder in the pedal, a light that stays on. Pete's Auto pulls the wheels, measures what's left, and tells you which parts are worn before anything gets replaced.
What's covered
Pads, rotors, calipers, lines, fluid, and ABS faults, measured before anything gets replaced.
Front and rear pads, rear shoes on drum-brake vehicles, and the clips, shims, and springs that go with them.
Measured for thickness and runout, then resurfaced or replaced depending on how much material is left.
Seized pistons, torn boots, and slide pins that stick and wear one pad down long before the other.
Leaking cylinders behind rear drums, usually first noticed as a damp spot on the inside face of a tire.
Cracked rubber hoses and rusted hard lines, which is ordinary wear on a vehicle that has seen a few Ohio winters.
A pedal that slowly sinks toward the floor while you hold it at a stop light usually points here.
A pedal that suddenly takes both feet to push, or an engine that stumbles when you brake.
Old fluid absorbs water, which lowers its boiling point and corrodes lines and the ABS unit from the inside.
ABS lights, wheel-speed sensor faults, corroded connectors, and the tone rings the sensors read.
Stretched cables, seized adjusters, and the electric parking brake motors used on newer rear calipers.
Not every noise is a worn pad. Rust on the rotor face, a stone in a dust shield, or hardware left out of a previous brake job all make sound.
New pads and rotors are seated on a road test so the pedal feels right at speed, not just in the parking lot.
Signs you need this
You don't need the right words for it. Tell us what the vehicle is doing and when it does it. Call (330) 587-4311 or use the form at the bottom of this page.
There is a squeal at low speed that goes away when I press the pedal harder.
It grinds when I stop and I can feel the grinding through the pedal.
The steering wheel shakes when I brake coming down off the highway.
The pedal goes most of the way to the floor before the car starts slowing.
The pedal slowly sinks while I am sitting at a light with my foot on it.
The car pulls to one side every time I brake.
The brake light or the ABS light came on and stayed on.
The parking brake does not hold the car on my driveway anymore.
There is a dark, oily spot on the garage floor behind one of the wheels.
I smell something hot after driving down a long hill.
What to expect
A squeal at 10 mph, a shake at 65, and a soft pedal are three different problems. Knowing when it happens narrows the list before the car is on the lift.
Pads are measured in millimeters, rotors are checked for thickness and runout, and the hoses, hardware, and fluid get looked at while the wheel is off.
We tell you what’s worn out, what still has life in it, and what the repair involves. Nothing gets replaced until you say go.
We drive it so pedal feel, stopping, and any leftover noise get checked at real speed.
Other services
Mechanical repair and body work happen at the same address, so if the vehicle is here for one, we can look at the other while it’s up.
Struts, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, control arms, bearings, and steering that has gone loose or noisy.
Check engine lights, misfires, no-starts, rough idle, and drivability problems traced to a cause.
Batteries, charging, starters, parasitic drains, lighting, and wiring faults traced circuit by circuit.
Accident damage from the first estimate through panel work, paint, reassembly, and the claim paperwork.
Rust cut back to solid metal, scratches and chips corrected, and windshield and window replacement coordinated.
Pete's Auto handles brake repair for drivers across Stark, Summit, Portage, and Mahoning Counties. See every city and township the shop serves.
Questions
Where you drive matters more than the odometer. Stop-and-go miles around Canton and North Canton wear pads much faster than steady highway miles, and a vehicle that tows will wear them faster still. Instead of guessing from mileage, we measure the pads and rotors and tell you what’s left.
No. Every rotor has a minimum thickness cast or stamped into it. If there is enough material left and the surface runs true, the rotor can stay or be resurfaced. If it measures under spec, has runout, or is deeply grooved, replacing it is the only thing that keeps the shake from coming back.
Get it checked soon. That light comes on for low fluid, a parking brake that hasn’t fully released, or a stored fault. Low fluid means either the pads have worn down and the calipers have extended, or there’s a leak somewhere, and a leak doesn’t fix itself.
Yes. We read ABS faults with a scan tool that talks to the ABS module, not just the engine computer. The common causes are a damaged wheel-speed sensor, a corroded connector, or a rusted tone ring. We test the circuit to confirm which one before replacing anything.
Grinding usually means the friction material is gone and metal is riding on metal. Stopping distance gets longer, the rotor is being cut up every time you brake, and the job grows the longer it waits. Call us before you put many more miles on it.
Yes. If the vehicle is already in for a check engine light, a suspension noise, or body work, ask us to measure the brakes while the wheels are off. It’s a good time to find out where they stand.
Talk with the shop
Call, stop by, or send the year, make, model, and a short description of the problem. We’ll call or text you back with what to do next.
Phone
(330) 587-4311Hours
Mon-Fri: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Saturday: By appointment only